Karen Reichardt - Vice Chairman of Sewing 2012 - www.SquareDanceSewing.com
SHIRTMAKING - by David Page Coffin. A very interesting and well written book but it does not cover the Western Shirt. - Threads Magazine #67 Oct/Nov 1996. If you wish to know more about shirt making I highly recommend this book and article. The link for the article is - http://sn.im/s67qm-uoq
100 Years of Western Wear by Taylor Beard. A picture book of the great cowboys.
Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer. How to fit women’s clothing. It is easy to read and very practical. Great pictures and drawings that will guide you through the fitting process. Available as a CD or book. Look for other Real People books by this author.
Preparation - Shrink fabric, trims and interfacing.
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Fitting Why bother making a shirt if it isn’t better that something that is mass produced?
Materials - pattern, fusible quilters grid, pattern paper, measuring tape, markers and rulers.
Measure at the Adam’s Apple and add ½ inch. Make a practice collar band.
Starts at the Collar - Collar size is not given on all shirt patterns. Use the following chart to determine the man's pattern size from the neck measurement. If it is a multi-size pattern it is actually the larger size. Purchase the pattern by neck measurement only. This is the most critical fitting point. All other parts of the pattern can be easily adjusted.
Neck Measurement - Place the tape around the neck at the Adam’s Apple and add ½ inch.
I can't get the charts to transfer from the hand out to the web site right now.
The learning curve has got me baffled - I will try again soon. Thanks
Body Measurements - These are given for reference.
Chest - measure around the fullest part of the chest just below the arm pits.
Waist - measure at the natural waist line which is just above the hip bones. Keep the tape parallel to the floor all the way around.
Shoulder - measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder pivot point.
Arm Length - with the arm bent at a right angle,measure from the shoulder pivot point to the wrist bone going over the elbow.
Sleeve Size - This is a ready to wear measurement. With the arm bent at a right angle, measure from the neck bone to the shoulder pivot point, continue around the elbow to the wrist bone.
Back Width - measure between the shoulder.
Height - All men’s patterns are designed for a height of 5 foot 10 inches.
Suggested Pattern Simplicity 5366 - S - M - L - XL and 4975 - 1XL - 2XL - 3XL - 4XL - 5XL
These patterns were chosen because they have a separate collar stand and front facing.
Other Patterns - McCalls 6044 or 2447 Kwik Sew - 3506 Folkwear - 212
Prepare the Pattern
Bond the pattern - Pellon or HTC Quilters Grid
DO NOT TOUCH -
Center front line - Must be on straight of grain
Center back line - Must be on straight of grain
Neck Line - effects interfacings, collars, & shoulders
Fudge factor seams - Fabric effects fit.
Length adjustment - 5’10” is the height the pattern is designed for,
Baste the Stitching lines - ALL Stitching MUST be 5/8 inch seans.
Sew shoulders and clip neck curve
Try on -T-shirt & necklace - pins & tape
Fitting changes Start at the top and work down - Back then front.
Changes must be make in the center of the pattern.
Rounded back - effects the neckline fit
Shoulder slope - will effect top of sleeve seam
Shoulder length
Broad back (rounded back) & hip room
Broad chest & tummy room
Underarm Seam - will effect sleeve seam
Sleeve expansion
Sleeve length - Extra length for active dancing.
Cuff Changes - Make a practice cuff or measure a well fitting cuff.
Interfacing - Pellon 906 - Collar - Collar stand - Front placket - cuffs - sleeve plackets -
Heat - Steam - Pressure - Time - Press once & cut once.
Sewing Instructions
new needle Universal 90/14 - fresh thread - set tension
Collar - stitch - trim - clip - understitch - sew ends - trim - clip - turn - topstitch -
Collar stand - baste - glue press
Cuffs - Stitch - trim - clip - understitch - baste - glue press
Shoulders - sew - fuse web - shoulder support
Yoke - Applique - anything goes - Pockets - part of yoke
Neckline stitching - ½ inch from line - required - clipping - required
Front band - baste - glue press - sew - trim band only- fold - glue press - top stitch
Snaps - Snap Tape Measure - Snap Source - www.snapsource.com
Back collar stand - trim and press
Collar and inside collar stand - attach using a template and trim
Edge stitch - increase stitch length
Side seams - final fitting
Sleeve Placket instructions
Sleeve seams - final fitting
Cuff attachment - Trim seams remove bulk to help snaps.
Bottom edge -Adjust & Hem