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       | These articles were published in the Washington State Footnotes Magazine starting in October 2007.
Slow down and sew the flowers ! Sewing is not about instant gratification or saving money or something we are required to do. It is a creative hobby and an art form, like painting or sculpture. If
you want instant gratification - don't sew.
Sewing is a slow process. Trying to rush will
result in frustration and ruined fabric. More
time will be spent ripping out mistakes than
sewing. The finished product will reflect the
haste and carelessness. If you get creative satisfaction from a straight seam - sew. If you want one of a kind garments - sew. If you would rather be sewing - then sew and enjoy it. Some people garden, others write books, you sew. Enjoy each step of the process. Sew slowly and carefully. Try not to sew with a deadline. If a project is not going well don't force yourself to work on it. It won't come out right and every time you look at it you will relive the frustration. Just put it aside until it can approached with a clear mind. Schedule time to sew, mark the calendar and make it routine. To get the creative juices flowing, read and watch about sewing. Go to the library and get a books and videos/DVDs on sewing. Solutions to problems and new ideas that will inspire can be found this way. Second hand book stores are a good source for sewing books. Video tape sewing shows on TV and play them back while sewing. Stop and watch the parts that are of interest to you and ignore the rest. As you learn new techniques each project will become easier. Connect with other seamsters. Local sewing machine dealers may have classes. The American Sewing Guild has chapters in Washington. They have programs and sit-n'-sews sessions. www.asg.org. The County Extension Office is another source of sewing information and friends. Sewing is often a lonely hobby and group sewing is better than group therapy for improving your attitude. You don't have to be a great seamstress to start a group. All you need is a time, a place and some friends. It
is very interesting that so many women say
that they don't have any room in their house
for a sewing space, and yet they all have
found space for a computer desk. Why do
computers rate better accommodations than
sewing machines? You will be happier and get more accomplish if you don't have to spend half of your time getting out and putting away the machine. There is a book titled "Dream Sewing Spaces" by Lynette Ranney Black that shows how to set up a sewing space in any size area. If the machine is always set up and ready to sew you will be able to take advantage of small amounts of time. Read 'The Busy Woman's Sewing Book' and '10-20-30 Minutes to Sew' both by Nancy Zieman for time saving sewing ideas. Don't
cut corners. There is a difference between
saving time and short cuts that will effect
the outcome of your project. Read all of the
instructions for a new pattern before
starting. There are reasons behind their
sequence of steps. After you have made the
pattern once you may find small changes
better suit your style. Make sure that all of
the notions are on hand before starting. Home sewers are often more critical of their work than they are of the stuff they buy. A slightly mismatched seam is agony on something they made, but they don't even see a similar flaw on a purchased item. Small errors will not be visible to most people and the ones that are looking for errors are not our friends. Ms. Mannnerly says - Oh! For goodness sakes! Don't point out the flaws in your creation every time some one compliments you. The proper response is a demure, "Thank you very much." Followed by a slightly smug,"I made it myself."
Everything Shrinks New fabric - sets the creative energy flowing. We want to get started right away. However, if the fabric isn't prepared properly the inspired masterpiece can become ruined in the first wash. Fabric is under a great deal of tension in the weaving process and will shrink as the threads return to their original length. Some weaves can shrink three inches per yard. The length of the fabric usually shrinks more than the width. Pre-washing the fabric with hot water and detergent not only shrinks the fabric, it removes the sizing. Sizing is starch like stuff that is needed to get thread through the loom. When it is removed the feel, the hand, of the fabric will often change. Plans for the fabric might change after washing. Sizing can cause skipped stitches, and prevent iron-on interfacing from bonding. Wash the fabric alone and look in the washer during the cycle. Hot water and detergent will remove more dye and sizing than cold water. All dark fabrics bleed during the first wash. Black is very bad because often it is over dyed. Keep rewashing the fabric until the wash water is clear. Do not use fabric softener in the rinse cycle when preparing fabric. Dry the fabric completely in the dryer. It is the dryer that causes most shrinkage. If the fabric is cotton or poly-cotton run it through the rinse cycle after it has been dried once and dry it again. Do not use dryer softener sheets. They can keep the interfacing from bonding; use them after the garment is completed. Shrink all of the items that are going to be part of the garment. The easy way to shrink trims is to put them in a leg cut from an old pair of panty hose. Tie a knot in the top and send them through the washer and dryer. If there is more than one piece of trim put them in separate legs to reduce tangling. Dark trims can also bleed so take care in combining items. To shrink bias binding or other cotton trims, remove the plastic wrap and wind some thread around the trim and cardboard. Place it, cardboard and all, in a glass dish. Cover with water, put in the microwave and cook until steaming. Then pour the water off, if there is dye in the water, repeat the process. After the excess dye is out, set the trim aside and let it air dry. Gently unwind the trim from the cardboard and press with lots of steam. Do not pull on the trim while pressing. Treat it gently so it is not stretched. Wind the trim on a toilet paper core to keep it from getting tangled. We have all seen trim that has shrunk once it was sewn on a garment and puckered the fabric. Have you ever seen trim that has stretched after it has been washed? This is a lot of extra work, but shrinkage after the garment is completed can completely ruin hours of creation. Don't take short cuts. These special steps add polish to your sewing and prevent damage to the garment. Enjoy the artistic process of sewing. Look for the best way to do things not the quickest. It is these techniques that will change your homemade sewing into custom couture creations that will give you pleasure for a long time. The last thing that must be shrunk is the interfacing. This applies to sew-in and iron-on interfacing. At one time I thought that I didn't have to shrink interfacing. I was wrong. The yoke on one of my blouses is wrinkly because the interfacing shrank beneath the fabric. To shrink interfacing, lay it in gentle folds in the bathtub. Add just enough hot water to cover, and let it relax until the water cools. Roll the interfacing in a towel and gently blot dry. DO NOT twist or squeeze. Then lay the interfacing out on a table and let it dry completely. Gently roll the interfacing around an old wrapping paper core and put it away. Thread is under a lot of tension during manufacture and sewing. Be sure that the thread guides are clear and the thread is moving smoothly when sewing and bobbin winding. Always wind bobbins at a medium speed. Winding fast causes the thread to warm up and stretch. It will shrink back later and pucker the seam. Fast winding also causes uneven bobbins, resulting in uneven tension. Check that the upper and lower tensions are equal and loose enough for the project. Most of the newer machines do a good job of adjusting the tension but it never hurts to check. Take two 6-inch squares of the fabric you are going to be working on. Put one on top of the other and sew diagonally across, corner to corner. Take a firm hold on those corners and pull. If the top thread pops and the bottom holds, the top tension is too tight. If the bottom thread pops and the top holds, the top thread is too loose. It is always better to adjust the top tensions first because the bottom tension is factory set and harder to adjust. The threads should pop at the same time. Look at the sewing, if it looks puckered try a slightly longer stitch length. To reduce the sewing stress on thread use a longer stitch length. Most sewing machines are pre set to a 2.5 mm stitch length, that is 10 to 12 stitches per inch. If that is raised to 3.5 mm or about 8 to 10 stitches per inch there will be less puckering and the sewing will go faster. No, it will not cause the seams to rip out. Seams should be weaker than the fabric. If there is excess force in the area something is going to give. Should the seam hold and the fabric to tear? Or should the thread of the seam pop and the fabric be OK? Seams can be re-sewn, mending ripped fabric is much harder. Melding the seam also helps to prevent puckers. To 'meld' is to press the seam, preferably with steam, just the way that it went under the presser foot. This causes the thread to shrink and it embeds the thread into the fabric. Press both sides of a seam before it is pressed open or to the side. This takes a couple of seconds longer but the results are worth the effort. Everything shrinks, but at different rates. Don't take a chance on any part of a project. Even if it is not going to be used right away shrink it now. When you are ready to sew, there will be nothing stopping you.
Notes on Needles Never, never, don't ever ever buy cheap sewing machine needles. Cheap needles are not worth the price you will pay in frustration. This is not the place to skimp and try to save money on your sewing projects. Cheap needles have dull ragged points that will rip holes in the fabric. Their eyes are not as smooth, this causes thread shredding and breakage. They are not made from quality steel so they are more likely to bend and break. You can hear the difference while sewing between a cheap needle and a quality needle. The quality needle will make less noise as it cleanly slips through the fabric, the cheap needle will punch through the garment with a popping, ripping sound. Needles wear out. Just think of the number of times that the point of the needle goes through the fabric when sewing a seam. They may look alright to the naked eye, but the points become dull. Using a dull needle puts stress on the sewing machine. There is another factor in the life of a needle. As those miles of thread pull through the eye they rub on the steel causing the eye to become rough and it can shred the thread. Don't think that just because the needle is not broken it is alright. The type of needle that is chosen must be matched to the type of fabric, the weight of the fabric and the type of thread for the best stitching. There are many more needles on the market than there were before because there are many more types of fabric available to the home sewer. Needles have many styles of grooves, scarfs, eyes and points. These differences are small and difficult to see without strong magnification but they make a big difference in the quality of the stitching. The needle that most of us need for sewing square dance outfits is the Universal Point size 8, 9 or 10. This is the needle for cotton and poly/cotton broad cloth type fabrics. When you start a new garment get out a new needle. If you have to change projects, such as mending a pair of jeans, take out the garment needle and put it with the garment. Insert a heavy duty jeans needle and complete the mending task. Then change back to the garment needle. The jeans needle can be put aside for future mending. I can hear someone saying, "Why bother?" to all of these steps. The garment needle could become bent, dulled or broken trying to force its way through the heavier denim fabric. This could cause skipped stitches when going back to sewing on the garment. There could be skipped stitches in the mending project because the garment needle is too light for the task. Needle size and type will make a difference in the quality of the stitching no mater what machine is used. Parts of a Sewing Machine Needle Shank - This is the thicker upper part of the needle that is held by the ma-chine. One side is usually flat. On most machines the flat side goes to the back when inserting a needle. The needle size is engraved on the shank. Shaft - The part from the base of the shank to the tip. The diameter of the shaft determines size. Larger needles are for heavier fabrics, smaller for finer weaves. The shaft must be perfectly straight and smooth to sew properly. Groove - The channel that runs down the front of the needle shaft. The thread rides in the groove when it goes through the fabric. Scarf - The indented area on the back of the needle just above the eye. The bobbin hook catches the upper thread at the scarf and pulls it around the bobbin. This creates the stitch. If the needle is bent the bobbin hook can't catch the thread. Eye - The hole in the needle that the thread passes through. Thread goes through the eye both forward and back ward. If the eye is too small for the type of thread being used the thread will shred and break. Topstitching needles have a larger eye and deeper groove for the thicker topstitching thread. Point - The sharp tip of the needle that penetrates the fabric. There are dif-ferent types of points depending on the fabric. Ball points are slightly rounded so that they slide between knit fibers rather than piercing them. Sharps are ground like a hollow point knife for microfibers that are very tightly woven. Leather needles have a triangular wedge point to cut through leather. Universals have a moderately angled point for woven fabrics. The Schmetz Co. makes hundreds of different types of needles for house-hold sewing machines. Once you see and feel the difference that specialized needles make you will want to have a wide selection in your sewing box. Today's machines with their high speed computer guided accuracy require high quality needles to do the best job on your special projects.
Hanging by a Thread Your clothes are literally hanging on you by a thread. With all the money invested in the fabric and all the time spent sewing, this is not the place to decide to economize. Quality thread is worth the price. Try this experiment. Thread the machine with white thread. Using a marker, color an inch of the thread just even with the top of the needle. Sew slowly on a scrap and watch the mark. It will go down, through the needle, around the bobbin, and back up through the needle backwards. The marked thread will do this many times before being sewn onto the fabric. That is a lot of movement and tension. Therefore, if the thread is more than ten years old - DO NOT- use it. Old thread becomes dry and brittle. Old thread can not be revived. When buying a spool of thread write the year on it and keep it with the fabric it matches. Purchase spools of thread at the same time as the fabric. Thread colors change with the fashion seasons and if the fabric is not used for several months it will be difficult to match last year's burgundy with this year's dark wine. With that in mind, don't get stressed try-ing to find an exact match for a fabric. Choose the color that is nearest and when there are two colors that are close go with the one that is slightly darker than the fabric. For most sewing the types of thread found at the fabric store work well. Some stitchers favor one brand of thread over another. This may be due to their machine or the type of sewing. If you find that one brand of thread works well for you stick to that brand. Don't sew with serger thread on expensive material or on fabric that will be under a lot of stress. Serger thread is two ply and not as tightly spun as regular thread which is three ply. Sergers rely on the use of several threads together to make a strong seam. Knowing these facts it is possible to use this thread on a regular sewing machine. Serger thread re-quires a separate thread stand with a heavy base. These big cones are cross wound, and the thread is designed to come straight up off the top. By putting the thread on a stand near the machine the thread will be coming off the spool evenly. These spools are to heavy to spin as the thread is pulled, that would effect the tension. For most sewing the same thread top and bobbin will keep the tension balanced. At the start of a project wind at least two bobbins in the new color. That much will be needed to complete almost any project. Wind bobbins at a medium speed. Yes, this takes longer than just tromping the pedal, but winding fast causes uneven filling of the bobbin and uneven stitching. Winding fast also causes the thread to heat and stretch, resulting in fre-quent breakage and puckered seams. Never wind one color thread over another. This causes a lumpy bobbin. The bobbin will hold less thread of the color being used, requiring more refilling. To save left over thread, wind it back on the spool. There are usually only a couple of yards of thread remaining, not worth keeping and the thread on the bobbin may not have a matching spool. Purchase additional bobbins to make color changes easier. Be sure to get the right size bobbins for the machine. Some of the new machines have an electric eye that sends a message when the bobbin is getting low. These machines require plastic bobbins. Always keep full bobbins of most frequently used colors on hand. What are the main causes of thread breakage? * 50% is the quality of the thread * * 20% is the needle - poor quality, wrong size, wrong type * * * 20% is the tension setting or using too short of a stitch length * * * * 5% is the condition of the machine - lint built up, timing, oiling * * * * * 5% is the thread delivery system - machine is improperly threaded Thread tension is a combination of the thread passing through thread guides and the pressure applied to the ten-sion disks via the tension spring. Whenever you thread your machine, make sure that the presser foot is up. This allows the thread to slip properly between the tension disks. Most machines are factory set for 50-60 weight sewing thread. When using a heavier thread for quilting or decorative stitching, the tension will have to be changed. Experiment with dif-ferent threads and tensions. It can always be changed back. Problem:
- - - - - - The top thread frays. Tension is set too high. Cheap old thread. Machine improperly threaded. Problem: - - - - - - The bobbin thread shows up on the top. Probable Cause: - The bobbin tension is too loose. There is dirt/lint under the tension spring or in the bobbin case. Top tension is too high. Problem: - - - - - - The thread makes a birds nest under the needle plate. Probable Cause: - The top tension is to low. The machine is improperly threaded and the take up lever was missed. Success is achieved by using the proper thread for the project, the correct needle for the type of fabric, and main-taining the machine in good condition. Tension should be on the thread not the sewer. You know that you have had enough coffee when you can thread the sewing machine while it is running.
5,000 Mile Tune Up A spool of thread is 300 yards, a cone is 3,000 yards and a mile is 1,760 yards. How many miles have you sewn? All machines should be on a regular maintenance schedule. If you sew a lot, oil once a week. Even if you don't sew very frequently clean and oil at least once a month. Keep a calendar near the machine and make reminder notes for better care. Carefully read the instruction book that came with the serger or sewing machine for oiling information. If the book has become lost a replacement can be ordered through a dealer or from the machine company. Proper care and maintenance can prevent costly repairs and down time. The two major causes of serger and sewing machine failure are lint build up and lack of oil. Only use quality sewing machine oil. If you have had the same bottle of oil for several years it is breaking down. It is still good for door hinges and other house hold jobs, but not the machine. New fresh oil is an inexpensive purchase to protect from costly repairs. Oil the machine exactly as the instructions are written. To much oil can be as bad as to little. Excess oil will help the lint stick to the inside of the machine. Use a cotton swab or fabric scrap to wipe up any excess oil. After oiling be sure to sew on scrap fabric for a couple of feet. The fabric will wipe any excess oil from the feed dogs and the thread will pick up any oil around the bobbin race. Oiling and cleaning should be done at the same time. The best way to clean the insides of a machine is to vacuum. Use the crevasse tool and suck all of the lint out of the sewing machine. There is a special attachment that fits on the vacuum hose that has mini tools. It gets into the small places even better. Don't blow into a machine to get the lint out, your breath is wet and puts moisture in to the machine. Blowing only forces lint deeper into the body of the machine. Don't use 'canned air' to clean the machine. It blows the lint back into the body of the machine even better than your breath. The 'canned air' is also freezing cold. It has caused gears and other parts to crack. Remove the stitch plate and use a brush to get all of the fuzz out of the feed dogs and other areas. If the brush is getting old or has been lost, purchase a new one at your machine dealer or fabric store. Once the inside is clean take care of the outside. Never spray any cleaner on the outside of the machine. There are to many openings where the spray can leak in. Just put a little household cleaner on a soft rag and wipe down the outside of the machine. While cleaning check the thread path and make sure there are no burrs or snags that could wear on the thread. All of the places that the thread goes through before it gets to the needle are part of the tension for the top thread. They must be clean and smooth. When you are going on vacation take the machine to the shop for a cleaning and tune up. When you get back, all rested and ready to sew, the machine will feel the same way. Like cars, sewing machines need to have their timing checked and other adjustments made. How often this service is needed depends on the mileage, every year for a daily sewer or every 3-4 years if used less frequently. If the machine is not running properly take it in for repair as soon as possible. There are times when it is just isn't possible to fix an old machine. We become attached to our machines because of the many creative hours we have spent with them. I have seen women get very upset when the repair technician tells them that their machine can't be fixed. Just like a car, a sewing machine can come to the end of its life span. If your serger or sewing machine is more than twenty years old, consider getting a new machine. They can do a lot of tricks that the old ones never dreamed of. Many sewers think that they will never use the 'fancy stuff' until they have it and discover how easy it is to add the special effects. Purchasing a ma-chine from a dealer is better than buying from a retail store. Go to the different dealers and test drive the machines, just like you would a car, to find the one that you like the best. Most dealers have classes and on going support and they are easier to work with if there are problems later. Some will take an old machine, depending on the make model and condition, as trade in. If your old machine is still running when you get a new one, consider donating it to someone who could use it. Is there a young person in your life who could use a basic machine to learn to sew? How about someone in your club who would like to make square dance clothes? Sewing is a love and a life skill that we can share. By teaching others we also learn, enriching ourselves and our community.
Christmas Wish List 1. Mechanics Parts Tray - A metal bowl with a strong magnet on the bottom. Guys use it to keep track of small parts when they take a car apart. It is a much better pin dish than the weak magnets sold at the sewing store. It spreads the pins out so that they are easier to pick up. The parts tray will magnet on to the ironing board and also hold a small pair of scissors. Keep it away from computerized sewing machines. 2. Mono-filament Fishing Line - 10, 20, and 30 pound test line. The inexpen-sive kind is best because it has more 'spring'. a. Can be sewn in when making rolled hems on the bottom of skirts or on the edges of ruffles. This makes the edges crisper and look newer longer. b. Zig-zag over the line along the bottom edge of a petticoat to give it re-newed lift. This is the only way to permanently revive a petticoat. c. Hanging decorations at the hall and a variety of craft projects. It is handy to have around when you need some thin strong string. 3. Hemostats - Look near the fishing line. They are the gismos that guys use to tie fishing flies. They look like little needle nose pliers. Handy to have for getting bits of thread out of the sewing machine and working in other tight spaces. Great for glue gun projects, to prevent burnt finger tips. 4. Scratch Awl - This is a sharp pointy tool like an ice pick. You don't know you need it until you have it. It works like a skinny finger for positioning fabric under the presser foot, especially when working with ruffles. It pokes holes where needed. 5. 60 inch Metal Ruler - Sometimes more than a yard stick is needed. Most fabric is 45 inches or 60 inches wide. This ruler is perfect for rotary cutting single layers of fleece. Its a handy thing to have around the house for lots of measuring chores. 6. Pretty Tools - When she needs a pair of pliers she really doesn't want to borrow the greasy pair you were using on your truck. Ben Franklin and Ace Hardware stores have carried a line of tools with pretty flower print handles. There are also sets that come in red or pink molded plastic cases. These tools are guaranteed to repel teen age boys. If you have several women in your life get them each a set of tools. 7. Tool Box - The hardware store has better sewing and craft boxes than the fabric store does. They just call them tool boxes. If she goes to any sewing or craft classes she needs something big to carry all the stuff. Stanley Tools has one called Mobile Work Center. Kobalt has a nice big blue one (Model 17181110). The wheels on both of these boxes make moving the stuff much easier. Just don't get to carried away and get one that is to big for her to lift in and out of the car. 8. Cheap Scissors - From the dollar store. Get several pair. Put a pair in each room of the house, including the bathrooms. Each kid gets their own pair. Keep a pair in the garage and put a small pair in the glove box of each car. Then keep your hands off of her sewing scissors. Her scissors should be an expensive pair that are only used to cut cloth. They should be professionally sharpened once a year. 9. Miniature Vacuum Cleaner Attachments - These small attachments fit onto the hose of the regular vacuum cleaner. They allow you to get into little places like the bobbin area of the sewing machine. Never blow at the lint in the bobbin area, all that does is send it deeper into the machine. Also breath is wet and moistens the lint, causing it to stick better. Whenever the sewing area is vacuumed the machine should be vacuumed also. The miniature vacuum attachments are good for computer key boards and other small places. They can be found in hobby and craft stores as well as hardware stores. 10. A Space of Her Own - The very best thing for a sewer is a place where they can leave their sewing machine set up and ready to go. This does not have to be a big space. There is a book called 'Dream Sewing Spaces' by Lynette Black that shows all sorts of sewing set ups in small nooks. Proper height of the table and chair are vital to comfortable and efficient sewing. Sewing requires twice the light of reading. A sewing place with these factors considered will result in a very happy seamstress.
Creative Resolutions I will use my creative skills to help some one less fortunate. It does not have to be a big project like a quilt. Baby bibs for the crisis nursery, soft fleece hats for cancer patients, or scarfs for the homeless shelter. There is some little thing that I can do for others. Sewing is my time. I do it because I like to be creative. No other reason is necessary. If the sewing is not going well I will not force myself to sew. I will take a break. I will put that project back in the box and work on something else. I will try not to sew with a deadline because I do not need the stress. Terminology is very important in sewing. I do not have a 'fabric stash'. That sounds as if I am trying to hide something. I have a 'fabric collection'. Always remember that she who dies with the most fabric wins. I will remove the words 'mending and patching' from my vocabulary. From now on they will be referred to as custom alterations and design modifications. My sewing machine will go into the shop for a cleaning and overhaul every 3-4 years. If I sew a lot it will be every year. I will oil and clean my machine frequently. When vacuuming the sewing room I will vacuum the machine. All of my scissors will go in for sharpening at least once a year. I will have different types of scissors for different tasks. My scissor will only be used on cloth and pattern paper. If I use rotary cutters I will change the blades frequently and take care of my mat and rulers. Basic sewing supplies will be always on hand so that I do not have to stop when things are going well to run to the store. Thread, in frequently used colors, elastic, is basic sizes and an assortment of interfacings will always be in my sewing supplies. Any pins that are bent, seem a little blunt or snag the fab-ric will be put directly into a sharps container. Pins do not last forever and I will not snag my fine fabric with old dull pins. I will not put the pins or broken needles in the trash because some-one could get hurt it they put their hand in the trash. All sharp objects will go in a small plastic container with a lid. When it gets full I will tape the lid down and throw it away. The needles in my machine will be changed frequently. The right size needles for the project will always be used. I will not buy cheap needles, they snag the fabric and make bigger holes. Seam rippers do not last forever. I will buy a new one every year. Dull seam rippers pull instead of cut. This will stretch the fabric and can cause holes. there are new styles of seam rippers with replaceable blades that do a much better job. I will go through all of those scraps that I have been saving for years. If I have not made a quilt by now I never will. Be-sides, there are not enough scraps of any one kind to make a quilt. I will call up churches in my area and see if they have a women's group that makes quilts for charity. Maybe the art teacher in a local school could use them. 4-H County Extension is another place that could use my extra fabric. - - Then I will have more space for new fabric. The local library has books on sewing. I will learn and try a new technique. I will purchase a new tool. I will take a class. I will watch sewing shows on TV or record them so that I can try the ideas that interest me. I will look into sewing groups in my area. Sewing groups are better than group therapy for lifting the spirits and connect-ing with others who have the same interests. If there are no groups in my area I will consider starting one. I will help others in my club by helping non-sewers. I will shorten a hem or mend a rip so that they are comfortable in their new square dance clothes. I will share my knowledge with a child. I will get them started on the creative process that is sewing. A sewing box for a child is easy to make. Some pretty scraps, a few pieces of lace and a bit of ribbon could become a doll dress. I will em-power them to make something unique.
Cutting on the Edge Precise cutting is as important as accurate sewing to the construction of a garment. If the scissors are chewing instead of slicing it will be impossible to sew an exact distance from the edge. An eighth of an inch cutting error in four seams will equal a one inch change in the finished garment. Don't waste time and talent on a project due to poor quality tools. Different scissors are needed for different parts of a sewing project. For cutting a pattern layout, an 8 - 9 inch pair of bent handled shears are best. The large bow (finger loop) should slide along the table top while the scissors are being used. Picking the shears up off of the table while cutting will cause the layers of fabric and the pattern to shift. Take long deep bites with the shears, slide them forward and take another deep bite. The next pair of scissors is a small pair of thread nips. These six inch scissor are spring loaded in the open position. Keep them right next to the sewing machine. To use them, all you do is grab and squeeze. Do not use them for any-thing except threads. The last pair of scissors is a 5 - 6 inch pair of tailor points. These are for clipping curves and doing other close work. They are much easier to work with in tight areas than shears. Spend some money on your scissors, buy quality. Keep them in good shape by cleaning the fabric lint off of them after each use and put a tiny drop of oil on the pivot point occasionally. After oiling wipe them down carefully and cut up some scraps to remove excess oil. Quality scissors that are well cared for can last a lifetime. Rotary cutters can replace scissors for some jobs. Rotary cutters are wonderful for cutting fabric, but they are a lot like computers. Mistakes can be made twice as fast. They are rolling razor blades and can easily cut fingers or anything else that gets in their way. If a pin is rolled over while cutting the blade is ruined. It will skip a thread ---skip a thread---skip a thread at that spot be-cause of the damage to the blade. There are blade sharpeners out there but I have never heard good things about them. Blades must be replaced and they can be expensive. Blades are brand specific, they will only fit one type of handle. Be sure to dispose of old blades carefully. Put them in a sharps container not in a trash bag. Some-one reaching into the trash could get a nasty cut. There are several sizes of rotary cutters. The ones that are used most often are 45 mm and 28 mm. The smaller one is perfect for tight corners, curves and circles. For your first purchase get the 45 mm, for general sewing. Keep the package as a reference for changing blades. Cutting mats are needed for rotary cutters. Get the biggest one that is possible, considering the size of your table and the price. They can be expensive and do not last forever. Grooves can be cut into the mat that will result in skipped threads. Skipped threads caused by a bad blade or a grooved mat can make pulls in the fabric when it is picked up. Mats must be stored flat and away from sunlight and heat or they will warp. To use rotary cutters, plastic rulers are needed. Look in the quilting section for the best selection. A good length is 18 to 24 inches and 2 to 4 inches wide. The wider width keeps fingers out of the way and gives a better grip on the fabric. Do not try to use an old wooden yard stick. The rotary cutter will cut into the wood. Hold the ruler by pressing the left hand finger tips to the ruler firmly at the start of the cut. Position the blade next to the ruler and cut up about six inches. Move the left hand for-ward like an inch worm. Cut and inchworm again. This procedure keeps the most pressure on the ruler even with the blade so the ruler does not move. Be sure and press down firmly and evenly with the rotary cutter. Make one smooth firm pass. Do not roll it back and forth (this is not pizza) that will cause a ragged edge. Hold the cutter blade straight up not at an angle. One more cutting tool is a small snap-off razor knife. These are little razor blades in a handle. When one gets dull just snap it off and there is a fresh one. Never cut button holes with scissors or the seam ripper. Scissors are not fine enough and the seam ripper will rip right past the end of the button hole. Before cutting a button hole apply a small amount of Fray Check to the cutting line on the back. After it dries carefully slice it open with the razor knife. This will produce neater smoother button holes without any mistakes. Quality cutting tools and techniques reduce frustration, increase accuracy and result in better projects. Many sewers cut several garments at once when they are in a cutting mood. Then they can sit down and sew whenever they have a few minutes.
Watch for more articles in the future!
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Square Dance Sewing For More Information: Karen Spokane, WA This Web page created on September 18, 2007 Copyright 2007 by Are You Going Ape With Your Computer?
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