The ever popular Bandana Print Kerchiefs can be used in many ways.
These instructions make a prairie type skirt that is about 29 inches long at the points and 26 inches long between the points. The circumference of the body of the skirt is about 84 inches. If you want a fuller skirt just add two more bandanas, one for the body and one for the ruffle. This will make the skirt about 21 inches larger.
Materials 
1. 8 large bandanas approximately 22 inches square, the design is square - the fabric is not always square,
check them carefully for flaws before buying.
2. fabric and elastic for a waist band
3. compass to draw a circle
4. piece of light cardboard
5. fabric marker
Instructions
1. Wash and machine dry the bandanas. This will remove the sizing that can cause skipped stitches and will shrink the fabric.
2. Iron the bandanas. Take the four that will be the ruffle and iron them in fourths. This will mark the exact middle of the fabric which may not be the middle of the print.
3. With your compass set draw a 6 ½ inch diameter circle on your cardboard. Cut it out. Put a pin through the center of the circle and through the center of the creased bandanas. Mark around the cardboard circle.
4. Sew around the marked circle with a short stitch length. Don't back stitch, over lap the ends of the stitching. 
5. Cut down one of the creases through the stitching and around the inside of the circle. Cut ¼ inch inside the circle from the stitching.
6. Clip the inside curve up to the stitching line. This is not an option. You must clip right up to the stitching threads in order to get this line to lie flat and attach smoothly to the body of the skirt. If you accidentally clip the stitching thread just sew that area just a little bit to the outside of the original stitching. A pair of small scissors with sharp tips is necessary. Clip every ¼ inch.
7. Sew the four bandanas of the body together. Use the zipper foot and sew right next to the rolled edge. This edge will keep the fabric from raveling.
8. Sew the sections of the ruffle together with a quarter inch seam. Right sides together matching the edges that were cut along the fold .
9. Pin the ruffle to the body matching the seams. Match the cut edge of the ruffle to the rolled edge of the body.
10. Sew the ruffle on. Use your zipper foot and sew just a little bit to the outside of the stitching line on the ruffle.
11. Dot a little seam sealant (Fray Check) on the corners of the ruffle and allow it to dry completely. Then trim the corner threads.
Elastic Waistbands
Elastic waistbands are usually more potluck forgiving and easy to alter. The main problems with elastic waistbands are that they can be lumpy and tend become twisted. The reason for some of these problems is that the length and thickness of the fabric. The fabric of the waistband must be long enough to go over the hips and then when all of that fabric is pulled in to fit the waist it is too thick and forms lumps. An elastic waistband can not always be made out of the same fabric as the skirt. If the skirt is of a thicker or stiffer fabric, a matching or contrasting waist band can be made from lighter weight fabric. This will reduce a lot of the bulk around the waist.
There are many ways to make an elastic waist band. Try one of these ideas.
Pleating / Smocking Woven Elastic Waistband
This is a different type of elastic that makes a smooth comfortable waistband with even gathers. Spandex cords are threaded through a woven polyester tape. It comes four widths, ½ inch, 1¼ inches, 1½ inches and 2½ inches. The 1¼ and 1½ inch widths are great for waistbands. The 2½ inch makes good looking belts and the ½ inch works for sleeves and the neckline of a peasant blouse.
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I just found a new source for this elastic on e-Bay. The contact is ' vanave8 ' . She has packages of this elastic made by Coats & Clark. There are three sizes available. At 99¢ this is the best deal around. She also has the Omnigrid Compass Points for 99¢. This price can't be beat.
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This type of elastic is not easy to find. I ordered some 1 ½ inch from Create for Less (search 05336108). I have also seen it on JKM Ribbon & Trims (search 861318) they have a $25 order minimum plus S&H.
1. Cut the waistband to measure at least three inches larger than the hip measurement and one inch wider than the elastic to be used. Cut the elastic the same length as the waistband.
2. Sew the short ends of the waistband right sides together with a ½ inch seam. Press the seam open. Fold down the top edge of the waistband toward the inside (wrong side) a scant ½ inch and press firmly.
3. Free ½ inch of the elastic cords from one end of the woven fabric. Fold the fabric under.
4. Place the elastic on the wrong side of the waistband. Line up the folded edge of the elastic with the seam line of the waistband. Fabric should be folded under and the elastic cords sticking out. The upper edge of the elastic should be one-eighth inch below the top fold of the waistband. Pin in place.
5. Pin the rest of the elastic to the waistband. At the other end of the elastic free the cords in the same way and tuck the fabric under.
6. Sew along the blue lines using a longer stitch length. Start with the top line, then the bottom, then the middle and then the other lines. Sew very slowly and carefully. Stay on the blue lines and DO NOT catch any of the elastic cords in the stitching. An edge joining or stitch-in-the-ditch presser foot may be helpful. They make staying on the lines easier.
7. Sew the waistband to the top edge of the skirt. The stitching line should be just below the fabric of the elastic.
8. Select all of the elastic cord ends on one side of the seam and pull. Then pull all of the cord ends on the other side. Make sure that all of the ends are held together.
9. Put the skirt on inside out and tighten the cords. Pull evenly until the desired fit is achieved. Make four knots across the seam line, one with each set of elastic cords. Take the skirt off making sure that the cords have not been pulled so tightly that they will not fit over the hips. The best way to determine the fit of the waistband is to wear the skirt to a dance and see how it feels. With the skirt right side out and the elastic cords tucked in no one will know that it is unfinished. Loosen or tighten the cords as needed after the dance. Then put a drop of seam sealant (Fray Check ™) on the knots and trim off the excess cords leaving about ½ inch.
10. To tighten the waist band just pull up on the knot and retie the cords. To let out the waistband requires a large blunt needle with a big eye (tapestry needle) and four pieces of ¹⁄₈ inch elastic that are about six inches longer than the new waist measurement. Thread one piece of elastic through the needle. Cut one knot and pull out the elastic cords. Quickly work the tapestry needle through the holes left by the cords. Do one knot at a time because the holes will close if left too long. Adjust the new elastic and tie.
11. Belts can be made using this type of elastic. Cut a strip of fabric that is about 1½ times the desired length of the belt. The width should be 1¼ inch wider than the elastic that is to be used. Fold both long edges ½ inch to the inside and press firmly. The fabric strip should be just a little wider than the elastic. Sew the elastic in place and pull the cords. When the belt is the desired length stitch across the ends. Tie a knot in the elastic cords next to the stitching. Fold the ends of the belt over the hardware of the buckle and stitch in place.
12. Sleeve cuffs can be made using this type of elastic. Use the same technique as the waistband.
Triple Elastic Waistband
These instructions are for a 2 ¼ inch wide waistband. The instructions for a 1 ½ inch waist band are at the end of this section.
Materials
1. Fabric for waistband - Long enough to go around hips plus two inches for ease by 5 ½ inches wide.
2. Elastic - ½ inch wide by 3 times the waist measurement.
3. A small amount of fuse web such as Stitch Witchery ©.
Instructions
1. Sew the short ends of the fabric together to make a circle. Press the seam open. Place a small piece of fuse web under the seam allowances as they are pressed open. This will keep them in place when the elastic is being drawn through. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise and press a sharp crease.
2. Set the sewing machine for a longer stitch length (4 mm or 15 spi). Edge stitch fraction of an inch from the fold all the way around the waistband. There are several special feet that can make this easier. Adjusting the needle position can result in more accurate sewing.
3. Sew completely around the waistband lengthwise three more times. The first line of stitching should be ¾ inch down from the edge stitching. To keep the stitching even mark the bed of the sewing machine. A piece of tape can be used as a guide. If the machine has a free arm place a fat rubber band around the arm to act as a fabric guide. Or the quilting guide can be used.
4. Bar tack on top of the stitches at the cross wise seam of the waist band make a being sure that the bar tack cross the seam. A bar tack is made by setting the stitch length to zero and the stitch width on a wide zig zag.
5. Sew the waistband to the top of the skirt with a ½ inch seam.
6. Pick open the cross wise seam between the bar tacks on the inside of the waistband. Use the seam ripper to open the seam. The bar tacks will prevent the seam from opening too far.
7. Cut the ½ inch elastic in three pieces. Each should be a little longer than waist length. Insert the elastic into the channels in the waistband.
8. Put the skirt on inside out and adjust the elastic to fit. The ends of the elastic can be over lapped and sewn or tied in a knot.
For a 1 ½ inch waist band the instructions are the same except the waistband fabric is 4 inches wide, the channels are ½ inch wide and the elastic is ¼ inch wide.
Single Elastic Waistband
When making an elastic waistband there are some ideas that will make it easier.
1. Wider elastic is more comfortable than a single row of narrow elastic. Wider elastic also has more strength to prevent the square dance skirt from spinning around the waist. For elastic that is ¾ inch or wider always use elastic that is marked ban-roll or non-roll. This elastic has cross wise ribs that keep it from bending in half when stretched.
2. To determine the width of the fabric to be used in the waistband add the width of the elastic, plus ¼ inch for ease, plus ½ inch for seam allowance then double this number. To determine the length of the waistband add 2 inches to the hip measurement plus seam allowances.
3. Fuse web ironed in place under the seam allowances will keep them in place when the elastic is pulled through.
4. When making a waistband always edge stitch the top fold and stitch the bottom of the casing. The edge stitching will make the waist band sharper and the elastic will be less likely to roll. Stitching the bottom of the casing prior to attaching the skirt will prevent the layers from shifting and make attaching the skirt easier.
5. Once the elastic is adjusted to the wearer, sew across the width of the waistband in 3 or four places to prevent the elastic from shifting and rolling.
6. The fabric must be light enough to gather on the elastic. If the waist band must be made of a thicker fabric some of the bulk can be reduced by making the inside of the waistband from a lighter fabric.
a. Decide on the width of the elastic to be used.
b. To determine the width of the outside fabric, add the width of the elastic, plus ¼ inch for ease, plus 1 inch for seam allowances. The inside fabric the same width.
c. The length of the waistband fabric should be the hip measurement, plus 2 inches for ease and enough for seam allowances.
d. Sew both pieces into circles. Press the seams open. Place a small piece of fuse web under each seam allowance.
e. Place the circles right sides together and sew a ½ inch seam length wise. The width wise seam allowances should be off set, rather than on top of each other, to further reduce bulk. Trim the length wise seam allowance of the inside fabric in half.
f. Press the length wise seam allowance toward the inside fabric and under stitch. This will cause the 'turn of the cloth' effect and prevent the inside fabric from showing on the out side.
g. Fold the waistband in half length wise, press and edge stitch the fold. This will help to prevent the elastic twisting in the casing.
h. Measure the width of the elastic plus ¼ inch from the edge stitching and sew around the waistband. It works better to sew this line before attaching the waistband to the skirt, it will keep the waistband smoother.
i. Make a bar tack at the edge stitching and at the other stitch line. Be sure that the bar tack crosses the width seam.
j. Attach the waistband to the skirt.
k. Pick open the seam between the bar tacks and insert the elastic. Put the skirt on inside out and adjust the elastic for comfort. Then overlap and sew the elastic ends together.