Crinoline - Petticoat Re-fluff-a-tation
There must be a dozen ways to fix a slip that has lost its lift or to give more bounce to a thin slip. The only one that will not wash out or flake off is fish line. This is not really any more time consuming than some other methods and it will not have to be redone ever again. Control the amount of lift by the size/weight of the fish line. This will work on any slip, any fabric.
1. Fish line - 20 lb. test, 30 lb. test and 60 lb. test. - Buy the cheapest that is available, it has more spring. The more expensive type is softer and limper.
2. Monofiliment sewing thread - This will work on any color slip. It is finer than regular thread so more can be wound on the bobbin. When sewing with this type thread, the upper tension may have to be tightened a little because the thread is so fine. Wind the bobbins only half full of monofiliment thread. Trying to over fill a bobin can cause it to break or bend. Regular sewing thread can be used for this project.
When winding a bobbin, with any type of thread, follow these guidelines.
a. Never wind one color over another.- This results in uneven filling which causes uneven stitches. The color on the bottom can't be used any way and the color that is being used will have to be refilled more often.
b. Always wind at a medium speed. - Winding at fast speed can cause the thread guides to heat up and causes the thread to stretch. Faster speed also puts more tension on the thread and will result in thread breakage. When the garment is washed the thread will shrink to its original length causing the seam to pucker.
3. 80 or 90 sharp needle - Set your machine for 10 per inch (2.5 mm) stitch length and a small zig zag. Use a regular sewing foot or an applique foot.
4. A boom box, a stack of favorite CDs and a cup of coffee. This will take a while, but the results are worth it.
1. Put the fish line to the right of the machine. It needs to be in a box or holder so that it winds off straight, like toilet paper. If it sits on the flat side and spirals off it will twist and kink. Pull several yards loose and let them lie on the floor. Trying to pull the fish line off of the reel while sewing doesn't work, it will be too tight. Keep the cat out of the room while doing this.
2. The easiest way to get the fish line to the presser foot is to run it through a clip attached to the work light over the machine. If there isn't a work light consider getting one. Did you know that twice as much light is needed for sewing compared to reading? Thread the fish line through the clip and directly down in front of the machine to the presser foot.
3. Once the fish line is started under the presser foot it will not have to be guided. It will slip between the toes of the foot. Look for a presser foot that has a groove running front to back. This will allow the foot to ride straighter on the ridge of the fish line and the seam. This is usually an applique or a button hole foot.
4. Start with 20 lb. test fish line on the bottom edge of the slip. If there is a rolled hem at the bottom of the slip just sew over it. If the bottom is a raw edge a rolled hem foot can be used. Slide about six inches of fish line under the foot so that there is something to hold on to. Place the bottom edge of the slip under the foot and under the fish line. Take a sip of coffee. Start sewing.
5. To prevent the slip from gathering on the fish line, a possible problem, hold the slip behind the presser foot and pull it slightly. Also make sure the fish line is running free from the reel. Stop and pull more off and let it lie on the floor. Put a clothes pin on the edge of the slip where you start sewing and sew for about two yards. Stop, with the needle down, and lift the presser foot. Run your fingers down the edge of the slip toward the machine to chase out any gathers, and then pull more fish line through and under the foot as needed. Lower the presser foot. Place a second clothes pin behind the presser foot where you stopped. Sew for a ways and check for gathers. Depending of the machine and the type of slip being worked on, this step might not be necessary. Keep moving this second clothes pin forward as you sew. The first clothes pin will show you how far you have gone. When you get to the end overlap the stitching for a couple of inches and trim off the excess fish line.
5. If there is lace or a ruffle on the bottom edge of the slip you can sew the fish line right above it. This works for the soft nylon type of slip. They are still soft and pack well, but fluffier.
6. Use the 20 lb. test fish line on the bottom of the slip. The 30 lb. test on the middle layers and the 60 lb. test at the top. This will lift the top of the slip and prevent that dip in the middle. Once you have done this you can determine exactly how much lift you like.